Friday, August 8, 2014

Cowl or Snood? I like to call it a Snood...or Snow Hood!


What is a snood you may ask, well it is a tubular neck scarf, that can be pulled up to cover your head, just like a hood.

                                             
                                                                      etsy

 Making them out of chiffon and lightweight fabrics can be challenging, but I hope this tutorial will help you!

                                               

                                                                    etsy

          KrissysWonders Presents
      Chiffon Snoods Made Easy


                                        Supply list
1 yard of fabric
(chiffon, silk, or lightweight cotton)

Cutting Mat (24” x 36”) You can substitute a piece of cardboard, or make yourself a paper pattern. I prefer the cardboard or cutting mat when using the chiffon, because it makes it easier to handle the fabric, and to ensure that you get a “Squared up” piece of fabric for your Snood. If you use a paper pattern, you will need to pin it to the fabric, and the chiffon can shift and move, making it hard to cut the fabric evenly.
Sewing machine (Sewing machine needles for fine fabric) Thread, Scissors, Yard stick, Marking pen, or marking utensil of choice

Definitions

Selvedge
 = the unusable edge of the fabric, in this case, you will have two of them that will be opposite the fold

Ends of fabric = this will be the edge of fabric that is 90 degrees opposite the folded and selvedge edge. 

1. When using 45” wide fabric, (instructions for 60” wide or wider fabric is below) place the folded edge of your fabric along the straight edge of your mat or cardboard horizontally, also making sure that the selvedge is straight on the opposite side of the mat. Then use the yard stick as a guide to mark a straight line with your marking pen or utensil as in pic 1 & 2. Mark and cut one end at a time, as it is important to “Square Up” both ends. If you have the cutting mat you can use the measurement markings as a guide for the yard stick placement. (It is important to have right sides of fabric together when “Squaring up” If you have to turn the fabric, do so before “Squaring up” your fabric. If you are using the lightweight fabric, it will get air bubbles in it. Patting the fabric gently and pushing softly will help you even out the fabric.)
Squaring up both ends of your fabric is a most important first step.  When you get your fabric cut at the store, it is almost impossible for the attendant to get the ends square for you. Keep your fabric folded and handle it as little as possible to keep it from “MOVING”. Chiffon and super lightweight fabric can move and shift, making it seem like you are trying to catch mercury. OH!! The less you unfold and play with the fabric, the easier it will be to “Square” it up, hence the wrinkled fabric in the picture. You can iron out the wrinkles during the construction process. (Yes…I love to play with my fabric) Once your fabric is marked, gently and slowly cut the fabric, trying not to “MOVE” the fabric,
    

                               




When using 60” wide or wider fabric, place the folded edge along the straight edge of your mat or cardboard horizontally. Let the end of the fabric dangle over the ends and the other side of the cardboard or cutting mat. Gently place your scissors end under the fabric at the right hand corner, or left hand corner if you are a lefty.  With your scissors open, butt the edge of your scissors next to the edge of the mat or cardboard, trying not to raise or mess with the fabric, keeping it as level as possible so that it doesn’t “MOVE”.   Slowly start cutting the fabric, using the edge of the mat or cardboard as a guide. Since you won’t be able to see, you will be feeling your way around the mat with your scissors. It sounds hard, but it is really easy.


 
2.  Your fabric is “Squared up” now, and you may still have a rough and messy looking edge, this is called the selvedge (pic 1 below) if you are using 45” wide fabric. The selvedge can be bulky and cause pulling and bumpiness if you sew too close to it. Eliminate this problem by marking the fabric, 1”- 1 ½” from the selvedge , you will be trimming the selvedge off after it is sewn.


                                                            pic 1

pic 2




3. You will need to leave an opening at each end. Place a pin 4” in on each side as pictured below. Now you are ready to sew. Sew from one pin to the other pin, leaving the ends open.
     



4. Carry the fabric gently to the machine. Make sure to support your fabric. Don’t let it dangle and swing in the breeze.  Slowly sew a scant 1/8” inside of the mark, especially if you used permanent ink like I did. DUH! All hands and fingers need to be on deck holding the fabric in front, behind, beside…making your fingers act like a spider, holding the fabric so that it doesn’t shift.  The feed dogs on the sewing machine will grab and push this lightweight fabric around, and it can be a little frustrating. Spider action is “KEY” to keep the fabric from “MOVING”

                                         


5. Trim the selvedge edge, including the area at the 4” opening. Please note the 4” opening area that has been left unsewn.

                                                             

6. This next step is important! You might need to “Square Up” the ends of the fabric again, just exactly as you did in step 1. The fabric will, and can move while it is being sewn, and the ends may become uneven. You haven’t done anything wrong, it just happens with this type of fabric sometimes. Lay the tube along the straight edge of the cardboard or mat, making sure that both edges are strait, with the folded edge on one side, and the sewn on the other side. You will then be able to tell if it has become uneven. Pic 1 Mark your fabric, and cut off the uneven edge. Pic 2

The squared up end



                                                                                                                           
7. Iron the seam to one side, on a Synthetic setting only in the area that was sewn, no need to iron the unsewn 4” opening. Turn the fabric, and then iron the seam again. Take time now to iron out any other wrinkles that are in the fabric. 


                                             

You now have a nicely pressed tube that is turned right side out.



8. Fold the tube in half, in the direction the arrows are pointing, meeting the unsewn edges of the tube. Right sides will be facing each other while sewing. It will seem as if you are looking down inside the tube while you are sewing.
 
                                                             

Folded in half with right sides together


9. Pull back the top layer of fabric, and Meet the left corners together as pictured. You can place a pin here while carrying it to the machine, but no need to pin around the circle, because the tube will spiral as you sew, and some of the pins will fall out…I know from experience. OUCH!
 
                                                                 



10. Next step can seem scary, but it is really easy. Slowly start sewing from the left corner, around the circumference of the tube to the right corner, using your spider finger action, (You are NOT sewing through 4 layers of fabric, only two) Sew a few stitches at a time, pausing to bring the edges together after a few stitches. Repeat the process again after a few stitches, pausing again and bringing the edges together, sewing slowly….repeat, repeat. While you are sewing around the circumference of the tube ends, it may turn back to the original inside out, but don’t worry, there will be that 4” opening for you to pull it back through. (Sorry I can only show one hand executing the spider action…I had to take the picture with my right hand)

                                                                       


11. The picture below shows that when you are finished sewing, the edges may not be even. No worries as long as your seam width is still ½”, and if there isn’t a large amount of difference, it will be tucked inside, and you won’t ever see it.
  
                                                                       

12. You are just about finished!!! Pull the scarf back through the opening if needed. When your snood is turned right side out, fold the edges of the seam, to the inside and pin in place.

                                                                         

13. Sew the opening closed with an edge stitch. You can hand sew this area if you like, but if the thread matches, it doesn’t make much difference.

                                                                     

14. Iron the edge stitched seam to one side, and then iron the rest of the seam. You are finished!! The tube may be tall, go ahead and put it over your head, and drape it in place around your neck, and fluff a little. You can always pull this up over your head as a hood when it is raining or snowing….or when you want to be left alone!

                                                             


Your finished Snood!!




This pattern is protected by copyright© KrissysWonders 2014. Do not sell, alter, or redistribute this pattern in any way or form. You have my permission to sell your finished product, but you are responsible for the finished product. I ask that you please link back to me the designer at www.krissyswonders/etsy.com


I hope you enjoyed this Tutorial!  Make sure to follow my blog, as I will be posting new patterns in the future!


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I hope you enjoyed my Snood Tutorial!!
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KrissysWonders